Tuesday, July 19, 2011

When Slaw Becomes Kraut...

Time flies. I can't believe it was an entire year ago that I first met Annie Wegner LeFort at a cooking class she taught at the Bay View Community Center. I also can't believe how that chance meeting has impacted my cooking life ever since. Yesterday I took another of her classes, this one on allergy-free vegetarian cooking, and I find myself inspired all over again.

Jicama Apple Cumin Kraut.

While I have my doubts in organized education, I love learning. I especially love learning from people who are naturally great teachers. Now that I'm not required by society to be educating myself, I enjoy immensely sitting in a classroom surrounded by people of wildly different backgrounds, and learning for the sake of learning.

I have only known a handful of people with food allergies, including some in my family. Usually, it was a peanut allergy or "milk intolerance", allergies that seemed ordinary compared to today's onslaught of wheat and egg allergies. When he was younger, my Dad developed an allergy to shrimp, and I've had my own brushes with reactions to specific foodstuffs (raspberries, oysters) that thankfully seem to have subsided. There are many ideas floating around as to why food allergies of all kinds are increasing, and rather than debate the cause I find it more entertaining to explore the cooking and baking resulting from it.

I think if I was ever diagnosed with a serious, life changing food allergy, I would choose to look at all of the amazing things I could still eat. (I would count it beneficial if I could possibly be allergic to sugar, in fact.) One of the recipes that Annie made for us last night was a cabbage slaw with jicama, green apple and a good amount of cumin, something delicious everyone should eat regardless of allergy issues. I knew straight away I would have to make this myself, and to lacto-ferment it since it does use cabbage after all.

There are not many more humble or healthy things than cabbages, and today at the farmer's market, I got a rather large one for $1.00.

Strangely, Annie was the one who unknowingly inspired me to play around with lacto-fermentation. Several years ago, I got a copy of Nourishing Traditions gifted to me in a round about way. I opened and perused, dismissed most of it as "a little out there", and went on eating a relatively low-fat, skim milk diet that I assumed was healthy. I would definitely say that after discovering the Raisin-Cilantro Chutney that Annie made last year, my eyes were opened. I really began to read in many different sources, including Nourishing Traditions, about nutrient rich and real foods, fermented foods, and why they were better for me. More importantly, these types of foods required me to dote on them, conjure them into existence where they change before my eyes and taste buds. This was the kind of food I was born to make, and maybe I would never have discovered if it weren't for her.

One of the most interesting things about lacto-fermentation in particular, is that nearly anything can be given the inoculation of whey (and if you are dairy-free, salt can usually stand in unless fruit is present) and be transformed into bubbling, probiotic goodness. The slaw from our class Monday night was delicious right away, but in three day's time, I suspect it will be even more complex.

When lacto-fermenting cabbage, I use a large, food service bucket. It keeps everything nicely inside since it's 8 quarts deep, and the markings help me judge how much it has reduced and what size jar I'll likely need to pack it into. I altered the amounts of Annie's original Marinated Cabbage Salad, and adapted it for lacto-fermenting by adding whey. In my understanding, since the slaw contains fruit, you should use whey to introduce the lactobacillus and not rely solely on the salt.

Lacto-Fermented Jicama Apple Cumin Kraut (adapted from Annie Wegner Lefort)
  • half of a good size cabbage, cored
  • 2/3 of a softball sized jicama
  • half of a medium sized sweet onion
  • 1 large green apple
  • 1 1/2 t. sea salt
  • juice of half a lemon
  • 2 T. whey
  • 2 t. cumin powder (to taste)
  • 1/4 - 1/2 t. cayenne powder (to taste)
  • handful of basil leaves, chopped
Prepare the vegetables: using a food pro or by hand, shred the cabbage and jicama. Thinly slice the apple and onion.

Place vegetables, salt, lemon juice, whey, and spices in a large bowl or bucket and beat with a sturdy wooden spoon for about 10 minutes. The mixture will release quite a lot of liquid (see the pictures below.) Add basil leaves and chop for about a minute to disperse evenly. Taste to adjust spices.

Pack the kraut into clean glass jars with very little headspace. Tightly seal, and let sit at room temperature for 3 days before transferring to cold storage.

half a good sized cabbage was greater than 2 quarts.

entire amount of veg and apple was about 4 quarts.

finished amount was about 1 1/2 quarts kraut.

This slaw has become a kraut. And, I'm too excited to wait three days to let you know just how good it has become! I promise I will update the post when I crack open a jar on Friday or Saturday. And meanwhile if you don't want to lacto-ferment it, you can wilt the cabbage and onion with salt for a few hours, pour off the liquid, add in the rest of the ingredients (except the whey) with a 1/3 c. melted coconut oil and a little bit of honey or stevia and you'll have Annie's original recipe. (She does make a dressing with the oil, lemon juice, spices and sweetener and then adds to the vegetables.)

this is the same jar when pressed lightly with a spoon. when lacto-fermenting, you want the liquid to rise above the vegetables.

The only thing I could dislike about making lacto-ferment vegetables is the mess. I had all of my counters clean when I started, and no matter my attentiveness, I had cabbage everywhere. Luckily it's easy enough to clean up, and the jars handsomely resting on the counters in plain sight are reward enough.

I hope I never tire of taking classes. My Gram took classes well into her 60's on different things, and she certainly never stopped reading and learning on her own. I hope that will be me: that I never lose the incentive to read and that I continue to run into great teachers and inspiration from unlikely sources.

You can find a list of Annie's upcoming classes here, and while you're at it, take a look around her blog for just some of the reasons she is so inspiring!


  1. That looks so refreshing and delicious! I really would love taking more classes. One of the reasons I like having a blog so much, is because I learn so much from all the people I come across. (You are high on the list!) It's almost like taking classes.

  2. Agreed, Julia! I take away a lot from you, too :)

  3. looks amazing. can't wait to try it. did you leave the kraut ferment in the big food service bin or did you transfer it to jars and then let it ferment? if you did let it ferment in the food service bin, how did you cover it?

  4. AmandaPaa:

    The ferment always takes place in the jar - no air is best. I've seen some people rig an airlock like you can find at homebrew supply shops into the lids of canning jars, but I find that quart jars do just fine being sealed up tight and resting at room temp for a few days. You can tell when the ferment is taking hold when you see bubbles rising, or the caps of the canning jars bowing up from the fermenting pressure. (Be careful unscrewing that canning jar lid! I've had ferments bubble up and over!)

    However, some do crock ferment for larger batches, which I think would also work. You then need to weigh down the top so that the veg is always beneath the surface of the liquid. Otherwise, it can mold. I find the quart canning jars to be a bit neater, and I don't need the yield like some do :)

  5. Just wondering - whey? I strain yogurt is the liquid the right kind of whey? I have whey powder I mix for "protein" drinks is that powder the right whey to make this recipe?

  6. The whey you want is definitely from the live culture yogurt straining. I'm not sure about the drink mix whey, if it has live culture in dehydrated form? If you have the yogurt whey, I'd play it safe and use that!

  7. awesome! thank you for the response!

  8. Thanks for the link. You really are too kind. One of these days I will find time to learn more about lacto-fermentation and then I will be coming to you for inspiration (though I already find lots of it on your blog.) Enjoy and keep in touch!

  9. Just found out that I have a mango allergy and have been craving mangos ever sense (shouldn't my body know better?). Bummer. This kraut looks delicious and I'm intrigued by the technique. Thanks for sharing!

  10. I love pickling. I just made a big jar of kimchi and another of dill pickles. A meal isn't complete without something tangy and alive.

  11. Amanda ... I make kraut in a big old jar and seal it off with a ziploc bag filled with some water, I just stuff it into the mouth of the Jar and try to ensure that there are nomair bubbles trapped in there. If the jar is fairly full I make sure to put a plate under it to catch any overflowing cabbage juice as I don't want it leaching through my cupboards.

    Laura - I have a bad (super itchy) reaction to mangos too - it was a very sad day when I worked out what was causing the problem as we had two laden mango trees in the backyard at the time.

    Ms cakewalk - I'm definitely going to try the yoghurt whey with my next batch. I usually pour it down the sink!


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